2 Moncler 1952
VERONICA LEONI BIOGRAPHY Veronica Leoni is pragmatic in her approach to design as she is thoughtful. Spontaneity is her medium; soulful precision her signature. She came to fashion through a literary degree accomplished in her native Rome. However, she credits her aesthetic imprinting to the visual and subcultural richness of the city of London: a place that has been integral to the shaping of her taste and vision. A defining experience has been working alongside master purist Jil Sander, where Leoni acted as knitwear head designer in the span of time that saw Sander back at the creative helm of her eponymous label. Subsequently, she acted as head of pre-collection at Celine for four years during Phoebe Philo’s tenure. She brings her crystalline vision to 2 Moncler 1952, where she is responsible of womenswear since 2018.
2 MONCLER 1952 (WOMEN’S) — VERONICA LEONI
Veronica Leoni worked around an idea of an ultra-feminine, roguish wanderer for the collection. She interpreted the Moncler codes through multicultural connections of signs and traces taken from different cultures and mixed in unexpected, abstract ways. The volume of kimonos and the wooden platforms of Japan meet African geometries as Giraffe prints are splashed onto sportswear shapes and Chinese silhouettes are reconfigured as utilitarian suits. Mischief-drenched tropical lightness is carried through Leoni’s signature superimposition of forms, this season in weightless and transparent materials with an x-ray effect. As a palette of neutral and sandy tones solidifies into deep notes of chocolate and is lit by touches of red and saffron to end in shades of blue and navy blue, the play of textures - matte and shiny, smooth and coarse mingled in endless permutations - adds another layer of stimulation. Papery nylons, cotton duchesse, printed ripstop nylon, suede, ottoman and Moncler’s own laqué nylon are cut into voluminous silhouettes that can be easily reconfigured by the wearer: pulling cords to get the volume closer to the body, undoing a zip to turn the parka into a cape. A cotton duchess field jacket matches the trousers.
The trench-coat is lightly padded. Blousons have puff sleeves and the padded vest is elongated and made in suede. Parkas have kimono shapes. Ribbed knits are worn underneath, sometimes opened by elbow slashes that allow further reconfigurations. Multi-brim hats, twisted totes, huge backpacks and wooden platforms highlight the wandering feel.