An exclusive look at 2 Moncler 1952
This year Genius is presenting eight collections. The idea behind Moncler Genius is to keep up with the constantly ever-evolving world, and with it, Moncler Genius presents year-on-year how diverse each collection is. The 2 Moncler 1952 collection is now available to shop in store and online, with six pieces showcasing the brands dramatic silhouettes and beautifully engineered fabrics - elements Moncler is renowned for. 2 MONCLER 1952 is named after the year Moncler was established, and is the only Moncler Genius collection to be designed in house, by Veronica Leoni, who debuted her first womenswear collection for the Italian brand in 2018.
Leoni is pragmatic in her approach to design as she is thoughtful. Spontaneity is her medium; soulful precision her signature. She came to fashion through a literary degree accomplished in her native Rome. However, she credits her aesthetic imprinting to the visual and subcultural richness of the city of London: a place that has been integral to the shaping of her taste and vision. A defining experience has been working alongside master purist Jil Sander, where Leoni acted as knitwear head designer in the span of time that saw Sander back at the creative helm of her eponymous label. Subsequently, she acted as head of pre-collection at Celine for four years during Phoebe Philo's tenure. She brings her crystalline vision to 2 Monlcer 1952, where she is responsible of womenswear alongside Sergio Zambon who designs the menswear collections.
For the latest collection, Veronica Leoni worked around the idea of an ultra-feminine, roguish wanderer for the collection. She interpreted the Moncler codes through multicultural connections of signs and traces taken from different cultures and mixed in unexpected, abstract ways. The volume of kimonos and the wooden platforms of Japan meet African geometries as Giraffe prints are splashed onto sportswear shapes and Chinese silhouettes are reconfigured as utilitarian suits. Mischief-drenched tropical lightness is carried through Leoni's signature superimposition of forms, these season in weightless and transparent materials with an x-ray effect. As a palette of neutral and sandy tones solidifies into deep notes of chocolate and is lit by touches of red and saffron to end in shades of blue and navy blue, the play of textures - matte and shiny, smooth and coarse mingled in endless permutations - adds another layer of stimulation. Papery nylons, cotton duchesse, printed ripstop nylons, suede, ottoman and Moncler's own laqué nylon are cut into voluminous silhouettes that can be easily reconfigured by the wearer: pulling cords to get the volume closer to the body, undoing a zip to turn the parka into a cape. A cotton duchess field jacket matches the trousers. the trench-coat is lightly padded. Blousons have puff sleeves and the padded vest is elongated and made in suede. Parkas have kimono shapes. Ribbed knits are worn underneath, sometimes opened by elbow slashes that allow further reconfigurations. Multi-brim hats, twisted totes, huge backpacks and wooden platforms highlight the wandering feel.